Washington Ballet Leaps Across Cultures in Cuba

By Sarah Kaufman
Washington Post Staff Writer
Saturday, October 28, 2000; Page C01

HAVANA, Oct. 27 Looking at the masses outside the Teatro Mella clamoring to get past the metal barricade, you might have thought there was a rock superstar performing inside, instead of the Washington Ballet. But this is Cuba, where dance is the first language and ballet is a national passion.

Add to that the buzz surrounding the Washington Ballet's Cuban American director, Septime Webre--his local radio and TV interviews about the American company's extraordinary trip to the communist nation have been rebroadcast all week--and you have what happened Thursday night: a near-stampede.

The crush began on the sidewalk, where guards had to guide small clumps of ticket-holders through the mob to the doors. Once inside, it was impossible to find a program, and clambering to a seat involved a full-body workout. This was an audience that would not be turned away--an audience unlike any that attends ballet in Washington.

Some in the multiracial crowd were relatively dressed up (no one here looks wealthy except the tourists) but many wore jeans. Cubans readily pay the 5 to 20 pesos (roughly 25 cents to a dollar, for the most expensive seats) for a live performance. That is, if tickets are available. Night after night, the theaters around town are sold out, particularly for productions such as the ones going on now as part of the biennial International Ballet Festival.

So while the crowd at Teatro Mella was feistier than usual, its overflowing size was not extraordinary. People filled the standing-room area, choked the aisles, even crept backstage to watch--cigars in hand--much to the consternation of the dancers, who had to wade through the onlookers to make their entrances.

Just before the curtain rose, Ballet Nacional de Cuba founder Alicia Alonso arrived, looking like Norma Desmond of "Sunset Boulevard" with her hair pulled back under a tight scarf, heavy makeup and oversize sunglasses shielding sightless eyes. (She has been blind for decades.) A national heroine, she received a standing ovation.

The crowd was pumped when Webre came out to give his speech about reaching out to the audience as a brother and the unifying power of art. But a slight slumping was noticeable during the first two pieces on the program, Spanish choreographer Nacho Duato's "Na Floresta" and the intricate and lyrical duet from Antony Tudor's "The Leaves Are Fading." Neither was well served by the acoustics, and the repetitive Duato seemed to drag.

Yet the two final pieces, Trey McIntyre's "Blue Until June" and Webre's "Mercedes y Betty," delivered everything this crowd wanted: an emotionally rich musical experience, and in the highly acrobatic dancing, all the caffeine of a Cuban espresso. McIntyre's work featured songs made famous by Etta James, sung by E. Faye Butler and the Havana Ensemble, a local group of musicians conducted by Fred Irby II of the Howard University Jazz Ensemble.

Webre's work, inspired by family stories of Cuba in the '20s and '30s, was set to such well-known Cuban songs as "Chan Chan" and "Dos Gardenias." It brought the audience to its feet for a loud and lengthy ovation.

"Fabuloso," pronounced Alicia Leal, a prominent Cuban painter who says she comes to the ballet every night she can with her teenage daughter, a ballet student. Leal said it was the live music and Butler's voice that made "Blue Until June" her favorite: "That American music from the South--it's very strong, very new to us. It communicates something special."

Backstage, Webre, his white guayabera shirt damp with sweat, credited his dancers with locking onto the Cuban psyche. "The dancers' connection with the audience was like this"--he interlocked his fingers. "They hooked on and never let go."

© 2000 The Washington Post Company